Piazza Walk

On Tuesday our small group did a walk around the north part of town. Our first stop was Piazza del Popolo, which was thankfully located near my new apartment so I did not have much of a walk. Today was excruciatingly hot, easily the hottest day since we have arrived in Rome. In my short walk to this piazza, I was already sweating bullets. While walking around this piazza, I attempted to find any spots that were covered in shade. From Popolo, we moved onto our next destination: Piazza Espagna. It was kind of bizarre seeing the Spanish Steps this early, as there were not many people there. Usually this area is packed with both tourists and Italians, but around 10 AM it is actually a peaceful area. We filled up our water in the nearby fountain, took a break in the shade, and then braved the sun as we headed to our final piazza. The final stop on our journey was the Piazza Republica, which is the area where many of the Italian rallies and protests are held. For instance, when President Bush came to Rome the piazza was covered with protestors waving their posters and belting out anti-Bush chants. This is a very beautiful piazza, and one I did not get to see very often because it is not very close to our apartment. This was a fun walk despite the heat, because it forced us to visit spots that we did not frequent often. It was nice going to different areas since this was my last week in Rome.

Vatican Museum

It took a little over a month and a half, but I finally made my way to the Vatican Museum. It was one of the hotter days of the summer, and the walk was far. By the time I finally entered, I was dripping sweat and anxious to enter the air-conditioned halls. After rinsing the sweat off my face in the bathroom, I was prepared to begin my expedition through one of the most famous museums in the world.

I did not go until later in the afternoon, so the crowd was extremely managable. I could easily maneuver through the halls and was never pushed around. Although many guidebooks suggest going early in the morning, I would actually suggest going in the late afternoon.

The museum lived up to all of my hype. There was so much amazing artwork that it was almost overwhelming. Everywhere I turned something grabbed my attention. As a result, it took nearly three hours to explore the entire museum. I would also strongly suggest the purchase of the audio tour. Nearly every piece of art has a story, and the audio guide does an excellent job of explaining these stories.

No More Cheap Coffee

Although I was never a heavy coffee drinker in America, I would sometimes need it to survive the long and arduous school days. I never really liked the way in tasted, or how you would have to sip it little by little because it was steaming hot. As a result, I never drank it for enjoyment, instead only out of sheer necessity. In Italy, everything changed. I love the quick shots of espresso and the relatively cheap prices. For a euro, I get all of the artificial energy that I need daily in order to brave the early morning wake-up calls. I also really enjoy the taste and friendly service, which will add to my sadness of no more Italian cafes.

I will miss this in the States. I can not see myself going to Starbucks or another coffee shop and spending a decent chunk of change on coffee I do not even care for. My only worry is that I did not become like many Americans: caffeine dependent. I have had some sort of coffee almost every morning for seven weeks, so it would not be too suprising. But I am still holding out hope that I will be able to survive the nine-to-five workday without the aid of American coffee.

Tourist Season

When I first arrived to Rome, I was initially overwhelmed by the hectic city lifestyle. I have never lived in a city before, so the swarms of people driving and walking through the city was different than the sprawling atmosphere that I grew up in. However, after a week or two I learned how to navigate some certain areas properly and I became accustomed to the city. Things no longer seemed too overly crowded, and grew to love living in a city.

However, over these past two or three weeks I have noticed that the downtown areas near school have become far more crowded. Places like Piazza Navona, the Trevi Fountain, and the Pantheon are constantly packed with tourists from all over the world, especially during the afternoon. It is interesting walking around these areas because of the numerous languages that you will hear being spoken. It is safe to assume that we are entering the prime tourist season, which also coincides with the recent influx of extreme heat.

Bank Adventure

For the first time, I randomly received a 100 Euro bill from the ATM. The giant green bill was neat to hold, knowing that the flimsy piece of paper that I was clenching in my hand was worth around 150 dollars. However, my puerile ecstasy quickly evaporated when I remembered the difficulty I would ensue while attempting to find a store that would accept this bill. Most stores do not even break fifties, so using this bill on a random purchase was out of the question. My only option was to enter a bank and change the bill there.

Of course, this was quite the experience. I nervously opened the door at the entrance, simply hoping that the teller would speak English, which would alleviate some of the hassle. Little did I know that the potential language barrier would have no impact on my first time in an Italian bank. As I grabbed a numbered ticket and waited in line, I was glad to see that there was only one man in front of me. When number 164 was announced, the middle-aged man calmly approached the teller. I only had fifteen mintues before class started, so I hoped this would be a swift transaction.

The oppisite occurred. The conversation between the two Italians was initially cordial, but the situation promptly turned sour. Within two minutes, the customer began yelling at the teller. The teller responded while yelling louder. Then the customer started to pound his fist on the desk, which meant the teller had to increase his voice one more decibel. Through it all, no one else in the bank budged. They continued with their work, like this was a normal occurance. Usually in the States, if something turns this ugly a manager comes and intervenes. I have also never seen a worker yell back at a customer either, so this was a completely shocking experience.

After about ten minutes of yelling, I realized that I was low on time and this argument made no progress. I had to leave for class, and hope that next time I try to break my bill I will not encounter this again.

They Missed Me

Earlier this week, I was not feeling too well and as a result I overslept by about ten minutes. After quickly changing and brushing my teeth, I made a mad dash to our tram stop. Luckily, my timing was impeccable and a tram was waiting at the bottom. I arrived to class on time, but sadly I did not have time to stop at the Gi-Ma for my morning shot of espresso. Needless to say, class was a struggle without my temporary injection of energy.

The next day, I made sure to wake up a little earlier so I would not have to battle my morning drowsiness. When I walked in, the woman behind the counter smiled and came to hear my order. As she handed me my cafe latte, she attempted to say "We missed you yesterday." It was a little broken, but I could make out the message. This made me feel good, as it is like I have finally be initiated into the secret coffee society of Gi-Ma. They expect my business around 8:45 AM, and if I am not there they actually notice. Sadly I leave in a week, so they will lose my loyal business.

I am not Italian

Anytime I see an Italian walk towards me, I promptly know what is coming. They are about to either ask me a question or start conversing with me. After they finish talking, I give them a blank, confused look back and simply shrug. However, I am not the only one who feels awkward after these exchanges. Usually the Italian person is visibly ashamed for mistaking me as an Italian. This is very understandable, as I am sure that they do not necessarily feel good about not being able to pick out people of their own ethnicity.

The confusing thing about these mishappenings are that I do not dress anything like a young Italian man. I wear tee shirts, shorts, sandals, and walk much differently than them. For the most part, my Italian counter parts dress much sharper and they have a certain sense of style, something I completely lack. As a result, it amazes me that these awkward encounters are still happening on a regular basis.

Descriptions of Three Places

During the day, the Campo de Fiori is one of the most colorful areas in Rome. There is a vast open air market where you can buy fresh meat, bread, fruit, vegetables, and cheese. To an outsider, the atmosphere may intially seem hectic and intimidating. Hordes of Italians flock there to purchase food and barter with the shop owners. This is ont of the best spots to witness the Italian culture and experience their daily interactions.

The Piazza Navona also offers a daily outdoor market, albeit a much different type. Instead of a food market, at Navona you will encounter a plethora of sights and sounds. Street musicians and preformers line the piazza, so there is a constant flow of free entertainment. By the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, artists set up stands where you can purcahse their paintings. Some offer excellent portraits of the Roman landscape or famouns areas.

The Piazza Della Rotonde is located at the front entrance of the Pantheon. During the day, this can be one of the most crowded areas in the entire city, particularly during tourist season. People flock to the Pantheon to behold the massive structure and it also serves as a solid place to meet up with someone. Restaurants and cafes surround the piazza, so it is a great place to relax and enjoy a nice cup of coffee. Like Navona, this piazza is full of talented musicians, vendors, and various preformers. These are three great areas near each other, which all offer a unique slice of the Roman lifestlye.

Three Stop Walk

During the summer days in Rome, there are some particular areas that really bring out the true Roman culture. The Campo de Fiori, the Piazza Navona, and the Pantheon are three spots that are always eccentric and crowded. You will see everything there, and they are great places to go and relax while taking in the scenery.

From the Piazza de Collegio Romano, turn left down Via Della Gotta until you reach the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, where you make a right. Continue on the Corso for about ten minutes, where you will find Via de Baullari, and make a left there. This leads directly to the Campo de Fiori. When you finish at the Campo, turn around back onto Baullari and cross over the Corso onto Via San Pantaleo. This road leads directly to the Piazza Navona. After experiencing Navona, walk through to the other end, which leads to Via Del Coronari. Turn right on this street, and shortly you will find Via Rosetta. Take a right there, and this road leads to our final stop: The Piazza Della Rotonde and the Pantheon.

Hadrian's Villa

Before class today, I never even heard of Hadrian's Villa. However, after some solid convincing by fellow classmate Cole Kitchen, I was sold. After looking at his pictures, the scenery there looked amazing. He has been to both Ostia Antica and The Forum, but he thought this was the best ruins that Rome has to offer.

The villa is a vast area that was the home of some of the finest architecture that Rome has to offer. Part of the intrique around Hadrian's Villa is that a lot of the ruins have yet to be identified. The excavations began around the 16th century, so it is neat that there is still a mystery to these ruins. One of the headliners in the villa is the Maritime Theater. It is a giant circular pool with an island in the middle. To reach the island, you needed to cross a swing bridge. The island was Emporer Hadrian's own private resort. It is interesting that in these ruins you are essentially free to roam wherever you want. You can crawl and climb through the ruins, which helps actually place you in the ancient times.

Vatican Museum

Incredibly, I have been in Rome for nearly two months and I have not yet entered the Vatican Museum. When we visited Vatican City as a class, I was saddened when the Swiss Guard informed us that the museum was closed for the day. Each week, I told myself that I would make it there, but now my time in Rome is dwindling. Sometime in these next ten days, I will finally stop talking about going and actually go.

Of course, the Vatican Museum is one of the top tourist destinations in Rome. People from across the world flock to Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel, particularly The Last Judgment. This is described as a "must see" for all Roman travelers. Outside of the Sistene walls there are also galleries devoted to Egyptian, Etruscan, and Greek art. It would be great to see a museum that has such an eclectic range of history.

Boys' Town

Although all of the boys come from different areas in the world, one common bond that most of them share is their undying love of soccer. Talking to the boys was a little difficult at times, but they knew enough English and the use of universal hand signals aided the conversation. The young Moroccan boy, who is the current mayor of the town, proudly proclaimed that he was the top mid-fielder in the town. When I asked him what place his team was, he proudly raised his index finger while giving a boastful smile. I jokingly challenged him to a match, and he laughed back, saying something along the lines that I would offer minimal competition. At this time, another boy chirped in and decreed that he was the top play. Obviously, these are kids who enjoy sports just like all of us. Sometimes it is easy to forget that they are adolescents who simply enjoy having a good time.

South Park and Boondocks

While flipping through the television stations bored and restless late one night, I stumbled upon an episode of "The Boondocks" on MTV. The show features dubbed over Italian voices, so it was somewhat difficult to follow the plot. However, it is a safe assumption that it was about some sort of racial satire. While watching, I could not help but think what Italians think of this program. Do they view our racial issues in a way that is presented in this show? Do they believe that this is what America is like? They do not necessarily understand that this is a satire, so they could potentially get the wrong idea about our culture.

Following "The Boondocks" was "South Park." Of course, "South Park," fouces on four foul-mouth grade schoolers who seem to grasp more of an understanding of the world than their parents. Although this is a cartoon, once again I could easily imagine Italian citizens thinking that all Americans are immature trouble-makers like Cartman. These two shows are not accurate depictions of the Americn culture, so I hope the Italians do not reach those assumptions.

Every morning when I walk into the Cafe GiMa, I am greeted with a warm smile from the woman behind the counter. She obviously recognizes all of us, and gives a friendly "buon giorno" when I enter the shop. It has reached the point where she expects my arrival around 8:30 every morning, almost like I am a regular. Sadly, our conversations usually end at the salutation stage because of the obvious language barrier. But at least like it seems she genuinely enjoys my frequenting her bar. When visiting some other cafes, often the workers are not quite overly fond of a group of tourists stampeding into their humble cafe.

On the other hand, the other morning is a man probably in his thirties. He seemingly carries a perpetual scowl, and is not much of a conversationalist. In fact, I do not recollect him ever uttering anything more than a "ciao" after we finish our morning coffee. When he takes my order, he solemnly walks to the machine and quickly fulfills my order without ever saying a word. It is still undetermined if it is because I am an American, or if he is just a quiet person.

3-0

As a child, when my grandparents would get upset in front of me they would not want to corrupt my innocent mind with profanities. They would resort to Italian swears, but eventually I started to grasp the meaning for some of the phrases. Before last night, I did not hear many of these words in a long time. But by the time that Italy was trailing 2-0 to the Netherlands in the first half, I heard many of the same vulgarities that my grandparents would specialize in.

Before the game began, there was a buzz going around the city. It reminded me of Philadelphia before the Eagles squared off against the hated Cowboys. As a result, it was not suprising to me to hear the reactions of the Italian die-hards. When the Eagles lose, I thank myself that my family does not have a swear jar. The Italians were extremely audible with their dissatisfaction from the game, as profanities were being thrown around like it was a teamster's meeting. I do not understand much Italian, but every time a curse word was shouted I recognized it, and at the same time I felt their pain. Sports truly are universal. They wield the power to break everyone's heart, regardless of your culture.

Angels and Demons

While walking home yesterday, I noticed that there was a lot of commotion occurring in the Pantheon area. Sure enough, the Ron Howard film "Angels and Demons," is currently being filmed throughout the city. Labeling the Dan Brown novel a blockbuster would be an understatement, as millions of Americans have read the book thinking that they have gained inside knowledge about Roman history.

The area was crowded with people trying to get a clear picture of Tom Hanks or just witness the filming. The one scene we saw was Tom Hanks and one of his co-stars walking from the fountain toward the entrance of the Pantheon. However, before the shot everything was set up perfectly by Howard. He cleared out the entire area except for a few vendors, some random tourists, and a group of nuns, all of whom would be included in the overhead shot.

This slightly bothered me. Since the Pantheon is simply down the road from our classroom, we walk by it frequently. The atmosphere is nothing like the illusion that Howard created. He made the area seem serene, when in reality the area is always so crowded with tourists. It is actually a skill to navigate through the throngs of tourists and reach your desired destination. When people see this movie, they will not be given the true ambiance of the piazza. But I quickly forgave Ron Howard though, because he helped produce "Arrested Development."

Boys' Town Pre-Visit

The Boys' Town near Rome is essentially a town governed by Italian orphans. Children who have a rough life or a lack of family are brought into the town and taught responsibilty and social skills. It was created by Msgr. Carroll-Abbing, who came up with the idea of the boys running the community. The boys have jobs, are elected into the government, and get paid in a fake currency called the Scudo. If a child earns enough Scudo, he can treat himself to some soda or candy. It is basically a bonus for good deeds. Boys can stay in the town until they turn eighteen. However, after they leave the town they are always told to return if they need any help in the real world.

Ostia Antica

Although I may not have enough free time to reach the ancient ruins of Pompeii, today in class we walked around the ruins in Ostia Antica. Ostia Antica is an old port town that was pillaged and ransacked during the decline of Rome. Each side of the main road feautres ancient ruins that have been excavated and preservered. One row of buildings really caught my attention, a strecth of bars and food shops. The insides still seemed perfectly preserved. There are counters where the cashiers would be, and you can see a main open area inside where people probably sat and dined. While looking at the structure, I was using my imagination trying to picture where the line would form for the wine and what types of food the Romans would buy in the stores.

Venice Cafes

While traveling, I feel like it is pointless to sleep well into the morning or early afternoon. You do not go somewhere to see the hotel room you paid for, no matter how nice or expensive it is. However, while believing this, I must admit that I am a horrible morning person. During the school year, I purposely schedule late classes so I never feel tired. This may sound horrible, but I chose many of my classes based on what time they started. Like most college kids, I like staying up late, and waking up late.

When traveling in Italy, all I need is a shot of espresso and I am good for the morning session. When I get in trouble, another shot is the easy cure. In Rome, there are multiple cafes on every street. There are so many, that you even wonder how they turn any profit. You simply walk to the counter, order a coffee, and stand there and quickly drink one. It is a simple yet effective process.

However, in Venice, we encountered a minor problem: there was a serious lack of walk-in cafes. Venice is a notoriously expensive city, and the coffee was no exception. Most places forced you to order more than just a coffee. They wanted you to buy food too, and tried to compel you to pay for a seat. As a result, I had to walk around for hours without any caffeine in my system. I never used to be an addict, but after so many early morning wake-up calls in Rome, I became somewhat dependent on caffeine. While walking around Venice, I was rather groggy and my mind did not seem to be quite as sharp. I tired quickly, so the only option I had was to buy two-euro Cokes. Needless to say, Rome has made me a coffee fanatic.

Rush Hour

Growing up, repeatedly remember my parents lecturing me about always bracing for the worst possible circumstance in regards to travel. If I had a dentist appointment at two in the afternoon, my dad would insist that I leave fifteen minutes early because of rush hour raffic. If I had a basketball game nine in the evening, I was told to be weary of the dreaded late-night rush hour. To my parents, suburban Philadelphia was perpetually gridlock with cars all hours of the night.

Before leaving for Venice early Thursday morning, I wish I heeded my parents’ advice. As we walked toward the bus stop on Trastevere, we missed the first bus that leads to Termini train station. I was unnerved, because we still had ninety minutes before departure. However, by the time the next bus came, the Roman morning rush hour was in full force. The streets were jam-packed with cars and Vespas trying to maneuver through the crowded streets. Our gigantic bus was no match for these conditions, as it was unable to weave around the traffic because of its size. We had no option but to get off and hail a cab. Luckily, the cab driver was extremely skilled in these rough driving conditions, and in no time he had us at the station. I learned a valuable lesson that day: always expect the worst when traveling. I just wished this lesson resonated in my head from the countless times my parents told me the same thing because then I would not have had this misadventure.

Public Transportation Follies

Since I am fairly competent with the public transportation system in Philadelphia, I figured that I would quickly grasp the nuances of the Roman system. However, I was gravely mistaken, and my wallet and sanity can attest to that. When I first got to Termini, the line was extremely long so I tried out one of the quick purchase machines. Worried, I sought the aide of a police officer who was near me to assist me in figuring out the Italian writing on the screen. Graciously, he helped me pick the right train ticket that would lead me to the Fiumicino Airport. After about fifteen minutes on the train, I realized that it was not heading in the proper direction. Sure enough, this train dropped me off at Ciampino, so I was forced to back-track to Termini.

Back at Termini, I refused to press my luck with the machines and decided to excercise my patience and wait in line. Eventually, I purchased the correct ticket, but while waiting I missed the latest train. Finally, I reached my destination of Fiumicino. I was only two hours late for meeting my friend, but she was grateful of my actions. I like to believe that the police officer did not purposely send me to the wrong airport, so I will blame the series of errors on a communication breakdowns.

EUR

This new suburb south of Rome was built as a tribute to Fascism. It was constructed in the 1930's and the exhibition was planned to take place in 1942 but was delayed because of World War II. The sight was never used as it was intended but now holds several museums and government offices. Visitors today can expect to see examples of Fascist Architecture. This includes striking use of white marble, large fountains, and large scale monuments to the old style Rome. The dominating building in this space, the Palazzo della Civilta del Lavoro, resembles the style of the Colosseum. Although it is a taller square building, the Fascist architects kept the traditional style of arches throughout the structure. Another noteworthy building in the EUR is the Museo della Civilta Romana. This structure is actually two buildings linked by a portico, which is meant to represent ancient Roman history and the development of architecture. Inside the museum you will find a large model of ancient Rome, as well as a planetarium. Further to the south you will see the large Palazzo dello Sport which was built for the Olympics in 1960.

The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. but call ahead of time to double check and expect a moderate entrance fee.

To get to the EUR start from Termini train station. Take Linea B metro line to one of three stops. You can get off at EUR Magliana, EUR Palasport, or EUR Fermi. If you are not much for trains, take a bus. From Termini you can take the 714 bus to EUR.

Contributing group members: Brian McDonald, Shane St. Esprit, Dom Cifelli, Josie Moore, and lazy group member number 1 (Jenny Biedendorf)

Directions to San Clemente

From Termini, San Clemente is not a very far walk. To begin, turn left and head south on Via Carvour. Stay on this road until you reach San Maria Maggiore, and stop in. Turn left at the massive church and walk around it until you reach Via Merulana. On your right will be the Mueseo d' Arte Orientale. Keep walking down Merulana until you reach San Giovanni in Laterno. When finished inside there, turn left onto Giovanni in Laterano, a little side street. Eventually, on your right you will see San Clemente

When you go inside San Clemente, which is currently maintained by the Irish Dominicans, be sure to explore the catacombs. Although they are dark and extremely cramped, it is something that you may never get to see again. If you do not like tight areas, just walk around the outside in the courtyard and the upper level of the church. The upper level of the church is not nearly as big as the previous churches you visited, but it is still full of some beautiful artwork.

Directions to Pantheon

To reach the Pantheon from the Termini train station, start by turning left (south) from the Piazza del Cinquencento onto Via Cavour. Shortly, you will reach Santa Maria Maggiore, a very big and beautiful church you should visit. After you finish there, continue down Cavour until it bends to the right. At the bend, if you look on your left you will pass by San Pietro in Vincoli, a church that features one of Michelango's finest sculptures. From there, take a right on Vi Dei Fori Imperali when Carvour dead-ends. Take this road until it ends, then turn left on Via del Plebiscito. When you walk west on Plebiscito, you will reach Via Arenula. There, turn right down the alley. You will see the Pantheon from a distance, but first stop by Santa Maria sopra Minerva, another fascinating church.

The Pantheon is an enormous structure that is nearly 2000 years old. When it was built, it was supposed to be a shrine for all of the Roman gods. Half the enjoyment of the Pantheon is watching the people in the area. It is always packed with tourists, vendors, kids, and street performers. the piazza is generally over-crowded, which means there is never a shortage of entertainment. The inside area is small on the ground, but when you look to the sky you can sense how big this temple really is.